The original Sixties barefoot-chic Caribbean resort that’s still pulling in the jet set

Tright here’s a sure magic to arriving at Little Dix Bay for the primary time, by night time. After the lengthy haul through Antigua to Tortola, the resort’s catamaran whisked me over the moonlit waves for the ultimate 25-minute hop to Virgin Gorda, the rum punch and sea breeze on the highest deck blowing away any residual cobwebs. 

I arrived in a broad bay surrounded by forested hills, to be greeted on the pier by my butler, and was delivered – considerably punch-drunk – by buggy to my room. The swishing of the surf informed me I used to be not removed from the water’s edge, however within the discreet exterior lighting of the resort, I couldn’t make a lot out past the swaying palms. For the view, and a way of orientation, I must wait until daybreak. 

It was with the same sense of anticipation that Rosewood Little Dix Bay reopened in December 2019, after a four-year closure attributable to Hurricane Irma. I used to be among the many first company to reach then, earlier than Covid struck and the resort was compelled to shutter once more. Now, nevertheless, the resort has reopened and the British Virgin Islands are again in enterprise for tourism, albeit with pretty stringent rules as soon as Britons are allowed to journey (extra on which under) which embrace 4 (wonderful!) days of quarantine on the resort.

Little Dix Bay, the environmentally conscious brainchild of philanthropist Laurance Rockefeller (grandson of Commonplace Oil founder John D Rockefeller) first opened in 1964 with a glittering three-day celebration of New York’s elite. The idea was new – a 50-room resort with the vibe of an unpretentious however refined fishing village. Low-tech, low affect and with an aesthetic of barefoot stylish, it ditched the idea of room keys and noticed saronged company shimmy from restaurant to sand. Constructed for $6.5 million, it could kick-start tourism, and pave the way in which for the social and financial growth of the British Virgin Islands.  

In 2016, the resort closed for an 18-month facelift – however Irma had different concepts. Three months wanting the scheduled reopening, the storm destroyed the property. Rosewood, which purchased Little Dix Bay in 1993, engaged US-based architects OBMI and designers Meyer Davis to rebuild the resort (prices would are available in at an estimated $150-$185 million). The relandscaping of the gardens, alone, was a tour de power, with its ocean of palm bushes and riot of ixora and allamanda, bougainvillea and schizanthus, beloved of hummingbirds, amongst 500 granite-boulder-strewn acres.  

“The buildings retain the identical footprint, and we have been cautious to stay trustworthy to the unique spirit,” Andreas Pade, managing director, informed me over a lunch of Caribbean-style tapas and a crisp own-edition rosé on the Sugar Mill restaurant again in February. “The response of company has been very constructive.” 

Apparently, the standout characteristic of the resort – the 4 conical roofs of the Pavilion, every of various peak and pitch to echo the hills – have been undamaged, however for 11 wallaba shingle tiles. As earlier than, native woods – purple cedar, purple coronary heart, locust, mahogany – predominate. 

The historical past of inns equivalent to Little Dix Bay – the place British royals have been company – is a part of their DNA. Rosewood, whereas retaining the model’s status for luxurious, has proved delicate to the founder’s intentions “to maintain the atmosphere as undamaged as potential, to maintain issues easy and casual, to utilise pure assets and profit the native financial system,” as the unique architect, Walther Prokosch, famous in his 1983 guide, Detailed Design.  

Rooms and suites, which had grown to round 100, have been pared all the way down to 80, alternating between sq. and hexagonal shapes: these closest to the seaside on floor degree, these set again within the backyard raised on stilts, guaranteeing all had a sea view, and none was additional than a couple of steps from the shore. 

My Treehouse Suite on stilts, comprising two adjoining hexagonal rooms and loo with an extra exterior bathe – had lofty pitched roofs, and a big wraparound balcony from which, when daybreak broke, I caught my first glimpse of the golden seaside, and loved breakfast, to the twittering of birdsong. 

Woods, native stone and neutral-coloured linens, enlivened with nautical blue, make up the inside, with references to midcentury design and images a nod to the resort’s 1960s heritage. Ceramic ornaments mimic coral, whereas a minibar stocked with uncommon gins and tequilas and glass bottles of Hildon water (there’s not a plastic bottle in sight) are homely touches. The espresso machine has biodegradable pods – a uncommon instance of eco-consciousness trouncing style (“We’re engaged on it,” Pade assured me).  

It’s a small quibble. Meals right here, beneath govt chef Francisco Sanabria, is one thing to dream about, from the ocean-fresh ceviches and conch and callaloo in coconut sauce on the Sugar Mill, to the juiciest, fattest Anegada lobsters, and one of the best tenderloin (glazed in lime and rum) I’ve ever tasted, on the Pavilion. I had by no means favored okra till I attempted the chef’s model – straight from the resort’s new natural farm, lovingly tended by Ashley, an previous timer of 29 years’ service, who can be in control of 60 egg-laying chickens. His green-fingered success is widely known within the new Reef Home restaurant that specialises in farm-to-fork, in addition to every day catches from the deep.

Company can work off ­energy within the fitness center, on the tennis courts, or biking round on good white and tan bicycles – however most choose to lounge beneath the palm-thatched parasols on the ­pristine half-mile of white sand seaside that first drew Rockefeller to the positioning. It’s spotless, with clear jade waters, dwelling to a dozen hawksbill turtles. 

It’s tempting to whereas away the day supine, watching the solar cross the sky, whereas younger kids are entertained within the youngsters’ membership and older ones amuse themselves with kayaks inside the security of the reef. With refreshments on the contact of a bell in your parasol (about as hi-tech because the resort will get), why not?

Properly, there are tempting alternate options, equivalent to complimentary boat drops to abandoned seashores with picnics on request. Rent a yacht for island-hopping and snorkel within the caves of Norman Island, mentioned to have impressed Treasure Island. Or climb to the hilltop Sense spa for a scrumptious pummeling with heat bamboo sticks and important oils (the Signature Therapeutic massage) and a frigate’s-eye view over the Caribbean from one of many resort’s two swimming pools. 

Earlier than it, the solar has dropped behind the horizon, and it’s time to make your method to the copper-toned Rum Room, the place 107 sorts of uncommon, boutique rum compete with a extraordinary cocktail listing (Truffle Martini, anybody?) A rum tasting, culminating with a Dictador Two Masters 1972, from Colombia, is assured to encourage new respect for what you had regarded as humble pirates’ grog. And what extra applicable libation in an ambrosial Caribbean retreat?

Necessities

Rooms from $850 (£623) per night time for an Ocean View Cottage (room solely). British Airways (ba.com) affords direct flights from London to Antigua, connecting with Inter-Caribbean to Tortola. (001 284 852 5500; rosewoodhotels.com) 

New Covid rules embrace a destructive PCR check and completion of a well being declaration earlier than journey; a PCR check on arrival, 4 days’ quarantine on the resort, adopted by an extra PCR check. Guests can even be required to obtain a contact tracing app and use a wearable machine (monitoring bracelet). Complete Covid insurance coverage can be obligatory. Full particulars at: bvitraveller.com/updated-bvi-entry-requirements